If you’re a nail tech, chances are HEMA-free is already firmly on your radar. Over the last few years, there’s been a much bigger conversation around HEMA, gel allergies and what we can all do to make gel services as safe as possible for our clients.
Now, there’s another ingredient getting plenty of attention in the nail industry: TPO.
With new cosmetics regulations coming into force in Great Britain in 2026, you might have seen brands launching TPO-free formulas, updating existing ranges or talking about HEMA-free and TPO-free products at the same time.
But here’s the important bit: HEMA and TPO aren’t the same thing, and the reasons we’re talking about them are different too.
So, whether you’re doing a stock check, shopping for a new gel system or simply want to be able to answer your clients when they ask what all these ingredient changes actually mean, we’ve broken it down below.
What is HEMA and why do some clients react to it?
HEMA, short for 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate, is a methacrylate monomer found in some gel nail products. It plays a part in creating the hard, glossy finish we expect from a properly cured gel manicure.
The reason you’ve probably heard so much about HEMA is its potential to cause allergic sensitisation and contact dermatitis.
Repeated exposure to uncured gel, particularly when it comes into contact with the skin, can increase the risk of developing an allergy. Someone can also become sensitised after previously using gel products without any problems, which is why correct application matters every single time.
For us as salon professionals, that means the basics really do matter: keeping uncured product off the skin, following the manufacturer's instructions and using the correct lamp and curing times for the system you’re working with.
Possible signs of an allergic reaction can include redness, itching, swelling or irritation around the nails and surrounding skin.
And while HEMA gets plenty of attention, it’s worth remembering that it isn’t the only ingredient in nail products that somebody can potentially become allergic to. HEMA-free doesn’t automatically mean allergy-free.
What are HEMA-free gel products and how do they differ?
This bit is nice and simple: HEMA-free nail products are formulated without HEMA.
For many nail techs, choosing HEMA-free products has become part of taking a more considered approach to the products they use every day. There are now plenty of professional HEMA-free options available, from gel colours and builder gels to base and top coats.
However, a HEMA-free label shouldn't make us complacent about application.
You still need to avoid getting uncured product on the skin, use the correct lamp for your system and follow the brand’s application and curing instructions. HEMA-free also doesn't mean that every other potential allergen has been removed from the formula.
Going HEMA-free doesn't mean giving up the things you and your clients love about gel nails. Professional HEMA-free systems can still deliver the glossy finish, colour payoff and longevity you expect – just always follow the instructions for the particular brand you're using.
The 2026 regulatory update: TPO and the CMR substance ban
Now for the part that has caused a little confusion in the nail industry.
You might have noticed HEMA-free and TPO-free being talked about together, particularly as brands update their professional gel ranges. However, they're two separate conversations.
Changes introduced through SI 2026/23 add 16 substances classified as CMR substances to the prohibited substances list in Great Britain. CMR stands for carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction.
The ingredient particularly relevant to professional nail products is TPO, or Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, which has been used as a photoinitiator in some UV and LED-curable nail products.
What is TPO and how does it differ from HEMA?
Here's probably the easiest way to remember it:
HEMA is primarily part of the allergy and sensitisation conversation. TPO is part of the 2026 regulatory compliance conversation.
HEMA is a methacrylate that can cause allergic sensitisation and remains permitted in professional nail products subject to restrictions.
TPO is a different ingredient with a different job. It's a photoinitiator used in some gel formulations to help the curing process begin when the product is exposed to the appropriate light.
Its prohibition under the new regulations relates to its CMR classification, rather than the HEMA allergy issue.
So, if a client asks you, “Is TPO being banned because it's like HEMA?”, you can confidently explain that they're actually two separate issues.
The SI 2026/23 ban: what it means for your product choices
There are two key dates to have on your radar:
- 15 August 2026: the placing-on-the-market deadline.
- 14 February 2027: the making-available/off-shelf deadline.
For most of us working behind the nail desk, the practical takeaway is that professional ranges are moving away from TPO-containing formulas, so you'll increasingly see TPO-free products when you're restocking.
Current CTPA guidance also makes an important distinction for professional stock: nail professionals can continue using affected products they already hold on clients after the February 2027 deadline, but won't be able to purchase affected products from distributors after that point.
Not sure what's sitting in your drawer right now? Check the INCI list for:
Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide
Our guide to checking your nail products for banned ingredients also takes you through exactly where to find an INCI list and what you're looking for.
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HEMA sensitivity versus CMR substance compliance: the difference explained
If all of these ingredient updates are starting to blur into one, you're definitely not the only one. The easiest way to think about HEMA and TPO is that they're relevant to professional nail techs for different reasons.
| HEMA | TPO | |
|---|---|---|
| What is it? | A methacrylate monomer | A photoinitiator |
| Why are nail techs talking about it? | Allergy and sensitisation concerns | The 2026 regulatory changes |
| Is it banned in GB cosmetics? | No | Yes, subject to the transition dates |
| Does HEMA-free mean TPO-free? | No | No |
| Does TPO-free mean HEMA-free? | No | No |
And that last point is one worth remembering when you're shopping.
HEMA-free doesn't automatically mean TPO-free, and TPO-free doesn't automatically mean HEMA-free.
If you specifically want a formula without either ingredient, check that the individual product is confirmed as both HEMA-free and TPO-free rather than assuming one claim covers the other.
HEMA-free and TPO-free products at Salons Direct
- Glitterbels HEMA Free range
- 2AM HEMA Free Gel Polish
- Bluesky HEMA Free Gel Polish
- Dali Artistic HEMA Free
- The GelBottle Inc HEMA Free range
If you're currently looking at your nail kit thinking it might be time for a refresh, don't panic and replace everything overnight.
Start by checking what you've actually got. Look at your product labels and INCI lists, check the latest information from your brands and make a note of anything you'll need to replace as you work through your existing stock.
At Salons Direct, you'll find a growing choice of professional HEMA-free and TPO-free nail products, including gel colours, builder gels, bases and top coats from leading professional brands.
Just remember to check the individual product information when you shop. Formulas can differ even within the same brand, so don't assume that because one range is HEMA-free or TPO-free, everything carrying that brand name will be too.
Glitterbels
The Glitterbels HEMA Free range has many stunning shades available that contain absolutely no HEMA. Removing the HEMA does not affect the quality or application process, and the two-coat system offers perfect coverage every time.
Key Features:
- Suitable for clients who have been overexposed or allergic to HEMA.
- Manufactured and tested to cure perfectly.
- Highly pigmented and smooth to apply the gel.
Glossify
Glossify has introduced HEMA-free shades to its huge gel polish collection, but it's important to note that not all of the collection is HEMA-free. Please see our list below so you can shop with confidence.
- Glossify Barely There Collection
- Glossify Joely Collection
- Glossify HEMA Free Top Coat
- Glossify HEMA Free Base Coat
The GelBottle inc
The collection includes five builder gel polishes, seven polyols, a base coat, and a top coat. It also offers TGB HEMA-Free bundles, such as a starter poly gel kit and a dual gel pack.
Here's what you can get:
- ProForm Starter Kit: This kit includes three ProForm tubes, Slip & Sculpt Solution, ProSculpt Tool, dappen dish, Bond Base, and Glow Top.
- ProForm Full Kit: This kit includes all seven ProForm tubes, Slip & Sculpt Solution, ProSculpt Tool, dappen dish, Bond Base, and Glow Top.
- HEMA-Free Top and Base Coat: This pack has a TGB HEMA-Free Bond Base and Glow Top.
Blue Sky
Bluesky Gel Polish's range consists of beautiful colours created to give beautiful nails that will not chip, peel, or scratch for at least 14 days. Bluesky's gel polish range is completely HEMA-free, ideal for clients with a diagnosed HEMA Allergy.
Key Features:
- 14-Day High Gloss Wear
- On Like Polish, Wears Like Gel, Off In Minutes
- No Nicks, Chips or Smudges
- Dries Under UV or LED Lamp
- Fully Tested and EU Approved
Dali Artistic
Dali Artistic was created by Emily Ferguson, who has been in the nail business for her entire career. Emily wanted to create a brand that sets itself apart from others and is powered by customer feedback. Dali currently offers various gel polish ranges, including a HEMA-free range featuring 225 shades—just look for the yellow bottles!
Dali Artistic Hema Free Gel Polish is a highly pigmented, long-lasting gel that applies smoothly and provides perfect coverage every time.
Key Features:
- HEMA free formula.
- LED/UV curable.
- Huge array of colours.
FAQ: HEMA, TPO and the 2026 nail product regulations
What is HEMA in nail products?
HEMA, or 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate, is a methacrylate monomer used in some gel nail formulations. It's become a big talking point within the nail industry because it can cause allergic sensitisation and contact dermatitis.
Are HEMA-free products safer?
HEMA-free products remove HEMA from the formulation, so they can be a useful option if you want to avoid that particular ingredient. However, HEMA-free doesn't mean allergy-free. Other ingredients can still cause reactions, which is why careful application and correct curing remain just as important.
Is HEMA banned in the UK in 2026?
No. HEMA hasn't been banned by the 2026 changes.
This is where some of the social media conversation can get confusing. The ingredient particularly relevant to gel nails under the new CMR prohibition is TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide), not HEMA.
What is TPO in gel nail products?
TPO, or Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide, is a photoinitiator that has been used in some UV and LED-curable nail products. Under SI 2026/23, it has been added to the prohibited substances list in Great Britain.
Is TPO the same as HEMA?
No. They're completely different ingredients.
HEMA is particularly relevant when we're talking about allergic sensitisation, while the 2026 TPO prohibition relates to its CMR classification.
Does HEMA-free mean TPO-free?
No, and this is definitely one to remember when you're restocking.
A HEMA-free product doesn't contain HEMA, but that doesn't automatically mean it's TPO-free. Equally, something labelled TPO-free could still contain HEMA.
If you want to avoid both, look for confirmation that the individual product is HEMA-free and TPO-free.
Can I still use TPO nail products I already have?
Under current CTPA guidance for Great Britain, professionals can continue using affected products they already hold on clients after the 14 February 2027 making-available deadline, but won't be able to purchase affected products from distributors after that date.
So, there's no need to see the date and immediately panic about everything already sitting in your kit. Check what you have, keep up with the latest professional guidance and factor the changes into your future purchasing.
Should I switch to HEMA-free and TPO-free nail products?
That's ultimately a product choice for you and your salon.
What matters is understanding what the different claims actually mean. HEMA-free and TPO-free address two different ingredient considerations, and neither replaces good application technique, correct curing or following the manufacturer's instructions.
If you're reviewing your nail kit, now is a good opportunity to check your INCI lists, get familiar with your brands' latest formulations and make sure you know exactly what you're working with.
For more help, read our TPO nail ingredient ban 2026 guide, UK cosmetics regulation 2026 overview and guide to checking your products for banned ingredients.
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